Aaaaand, We're Live...
![]() |
Skillet Doux in audio. First podcast? This week's Top Chef Power Rankings.
Am I one of the cool kids now?
Be kind, be brutal -- let me know if these are worth continuing.
Link after the jump.
« March 2008 | Main | May 2008 »
![]() |
Skillet Doux in audio. First podcast? This week's Top Chef Power Rankings.
Am I one of the cool kids now?
Be kind, be brutal -- let me know if these are worth continuing.
Link after the jump.
![]() |
![]() |
First, pastry. As mentioned last week, pastry freaks chefs out. Some of the most talented chefs are completely incapable of making a good cake. Though you might not think so at first, they're really completely different disciplines. Being a chef is about throwing things together, tasting, adjusting and improvising. Being a pastry chef is no less creative, but it's about precision, and there's a lot less room for on-the-fly improvisation. This is, however, season four, and most of the chefs seemed prepared, if a little out of their element. Chicago has an extremely high-profile pastry chef in Gale Gand, so unless she and Rick Tramonto are going to make an appearance later in the season (which would be nice), it's a little disappointing to see another NY import -- especially one who hasn't already been on the show. That said, I've eaten multiple times at both Jean Georges and Tru and, uh, sorry Gale... I enjoyed Iuzzini's desserts a lot more.
As to the controversy, while my annoyance didn't quite reach the same level of the comments I've been reading, I didn't like this call one bit at first. After watching the show I had the same impression that everybody else seems to have -- that Antonia and Lisa completely ignored the challenge and didn't use their primary ingredient. And while I could see the judges saying something to Stephanie and Jennifer along the lines of, "Guys, we know they strayed way off course, but you have to give us something to hang out hat on and you just didn't," I didn't like the precedent being set that you can basically ignore the parameters of the challenge and get away with it. Fudge them, okay -- but ignore them completely? I thought Antonia or Lisa should have gotten the axe.
But then, as I was doing my research for this week's rankings, I took a look at the recipe for their dish. And lo and behold, there's the Polish sausage, mixed in with the chorizo! Now, the recipes on the website aren't always entirely accurate. I've known them to omit ingredients or components at times. But it's one thing to erroneously omit an ingredient. It's another thing entirely to erroneously add an ingredient that was never there in the first place. So this got me wondering... despite the quotes from Lisa and Antonia that seemed to clearly indicate they were NOT going to use Polish sausage, did they end up using some after all, or did they amend their recipe for the website after the fact to include the thematic ingredient that was never there?
So I rewatched the episode, trying to pay very close attention to exactly what was said. Antonia clearly stated that they weren't going to use Polish sausage, but when was that interview done? If it was before they went shopping, which seems probable, they very well may have changed their minds. And while there are a lot of quotes that could be read either way, I found these two quotes from judges' table particularly compelling:
Ted Allen: "So, which is worse? Antonia and Lisa not really focusing on the main ingredient, or Jenn and Steph giving us something that was kind of a muddle on the plate?"Tom Colicchio: "In Lisa and Antonia's case, you know, they downplayed the Polish sausage and introduced chorizo."
(My emphasis)
If they hadn't used Polish sausage, why on earth would you phrase it like that? Wouldn't you just say they didn't use the main ingredient, or they ignored the main ingredient? It sounds more like the kind of comments you'd hear if the sausage was there, but buried. Also, during the shopping scene, there's a very quiet, quick bit of dialogue between Antonia and Lisa:
Antonia: "Can we really mix Polish and chorizo?"Lisa: "They're very similar."
So we know for certain that they at least considered using both. And finally, I caught something during the prep scene. I realize this is like the culinary equivalent of the Zapruder film (thanks to Ed Fisher for the screen capture!), but bear with me:
![]() | ![]() |
It's a lot clearer in glorious high definition than it is here, but in the hotel pan in front of Antonia? Sure looks like two different sausages to me. The three on the left are that nice, bright chorizo red, but the two on the right are a pale pink. Now, the finer points of tubular Polish meats isn't my area of expertise, but that sausage on the right sure seems like an awfully coarse grind for Polish sausage. So I decided to follow this through to its logical (if completely insane) conclusion.
I called the meat counter at the market where the chefs did their shopping (the Halsted & Waveland Whole Foods in Chicago) and asked if they had a house-made Polish. The fellow I spoke to replied that they do, indeed, make a Polish sausage and that I can find it in the meat case. I asked if it's a really fine grind, like commercial packaged sausage, or if it's a coarse grind. He told me it's the same type of coarse grind as their other fresh sausages.
My conclusion? Antonia and Lisa DID use a little bit of Polish sausage for fear of being disqualified if they didn't, but because they didn't want to, they intentionally buried it deep in the dish. It's not much better than leaving it out entirely, but for those who are hardliners when it comes to the parameters of the challenge, it makes a difference. I don't know this for a fact, and Tom said a couple of other things at the judges' table that sure made it sound like they only used chorizo, but you put everything together -- the recipe, the quotes, the photos, the judging, the Whole Foods meat counter -- and it just fits. I still think Lisa or Antonia probably should've gotten the axe. Even if their ingredient was on the plate, they clearly made an effort to hide it as much as possible and expressed outright contempt for the challenge, which is almost as bad. But I'm less annoyed with the elimination decision since it appears that Polish sausage probably was, in fact, worked into the dish. Did the sleuthing affect the rankings this week? Not really. But it was a good enough way to waste a Friday night.
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
Maybe it's because he finally got to bust out his soup, but it's nice to see Spike attacking a challenge. Two of them, actually, even if he didn't succeed with the first. Lee Anne says his soufflé was sweet to the point of being completely inedible, but Iuzzini really appreciated the effort. And then, in the elimination, a serious compliment from Tom. "This is probably the best seasoned dish we've had all season," in case you missed it. There are some who seem to feel that Spike and Andrew didn't belong on top. "They just made soup." But as wrong as Spike has been on so many occasions, here he's dead on. It's not just soup if you do it well. And it wasn't a whiz-bang creativity extravaganza, but it had a unique flavor profile and integrated the theme beautifully. Their soup was built with honey and miso, and they worked the vanilla into a dollop of cold crème fraîche, which put the theme front and center and also made for a temperature contrast. They didn't deserve the win, no, but don't underestimate the power of a great soup or the skill and creativity that can go into creating it. I think Spike can do well if he keeps his ego in check, and maybe a successful collaboration with a guy as enthusiastic as Andrew will set him on the right track. |
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
Next week brings us Art Smith, who I don't really know anything about beyond the fact that he's Oprah's personal chef and he's incredibly well-respected for his charity work. If nothing else, between him and Tom, it should be a banner week for the bear community. We get no hints whatsoever about the quickfire, but there's a huge pile of fresh vegetables on the table behind Smith. And the elimination looks to be an individual one (woo!), if you don't count the fact that every chef has a half pint in tow. Smith is all about foods for the whole family, so my guess is they have to come up with a recipe and coach the kids through the prep, without actually doing any cooking themselves. I suppose I see the logic. Can you come up with a delicious recipe that anybody -- truly anybody -- can do? But it's the kind of excessive gimmick that I've always hated on this show. If my guess is correct, the whole world could be turned upside-down. This is roughly Nikki's standard level of sophistication, so she might actually be okay again. Richard has control issues, which worries me more than a little. Andrew basically IS a kid, so I can see him rocking this challenge. But I'm hoping this one means curtains for Lisa. Patience isn't her strong suit, and we've all seen how she reacts when she thinks a challenge is dumb. Seems like the perfect setup for her ouster.
Discuss!
I do, on occasion, refer back to some of my old writings, and have gotten into the habit of using Google to search my own site. This strikes me as rather inefficient, so in the interest of self-improvement, I've added a restaurant index!
Link's on the right, and it brings up a page that lists all of the restaurants about which I've posted a significant amount of information, grouped by city/nation, and noting the type of cuisine and when I wrote about it.
82 restaurants. Yow.
![]() |
It's a sports-ey, meat and potatoes-ey kind of episode (at least as much as that happens on this show), and we kick it off with beer. I'm friends with beer. I respect beer. But I'm no expert when it comes to beer, so I'll leave the finer points of the various brews to those who know what they're talking about. But judging from some of the chefs' reactions, I'm not alone in my relative ignorance. Reading around the web, some have seemed rather taken aback that a few chefs didn't seem entirely comfortable with beer. There seems to be a feeling among many fans of the show that every chef should know everything about everything, but that's just not realistic. Of course you'd expect them to have a fairly broad base of experience, and of course there are certain things that every chef should know (*ahem*... mayonnaise). But these folks have their favorites and their areas of expertise and their strengths and weaknesses just like everybody else. Koren Grieveson leaves a little to be desired in the on-screen personality department (Exhibit A for those who support sticking with the show's coastal go-to celebri-chefs), but by all accounts she runs one helluva kitchen (Avec being one of the shameful omissions of my Chicago restaurant experience), so we'll give her a pass.
Meanwhile, over at Soldier Field, it's great to see these guys doing their own thing in an elimination challenge, even if it isn't in a kitchen setting. This is a challenge that goes right to the heart of something that, mysteriously, some chefs on the show just never seem to comprehend. There's a line to walk here, and the judges expect you to walk it. You have to know your audience and make something that's appropriate to the setting, but just because you're "cooking for the masses" (a horribly condescending phrase that appears with unfortunate regularity on the show), that doesn't mean that you can get lazy and make uninteresting, sloppy food. It's a tailgate party. Do burgers. Do sausages. Do ribs. But do something interesting and fun with them, that's all. The chefs that understand this did well. The ones that didn't? Well...
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
Keep moving, Mark. We'll get to you in a moment. We're as shocked as you, but apparently Andrew can make something other than faux caviar. And he appears to be making up for lost time, because I think he actually prepared seven dishes this week. Let's review: Rainbow trout with raspberry gastrique, hento salad, pomegranate miso vinaigrette and peaches for the quickfire, and grilled shrimp with beer-mustard-honey sauce, potato-parsnip whip, chimichurri, apple-scallion chutney and crispy bacon for the elimination. He clearly has the energy to turn out some interesting, complex elements, even if I question his ability to pull them together cohesively. That's a LOT of stuff going on, and it didn't seem to quite come together for the judges, either. He seems to do better when he exercises a little restraint (or, perhaps more accurately, when his teammates exercise it for him), but he's getting more and more tweaked as the competition goes on, so I suspect he'll be dragged out by security sooner rather than later. Oh, and Andrew? It's a lot easier to remove a football helmet if you undo the chin strap. |
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
At this point, I feel like the rankings have kind of settled in. We have a clear top three, and though some are more likely to get there than others, everybody has a legitimate shot at earning the right to be absolutely crushed by Stephanie, Richard and Dale in the finals. The only exception, of course, being Nikki. Next week should be interesting. For starters, we're getting a pastry quickfire, where people could really embarrass themselves. It's a truism that I'll never understand (though I feel the same way), but chefs, generally speaking, don't do pastry. That's for pastry chefs. And it isn't that chefs look down on pastry, it's that they're intimidated by it. It's as though they engage completely different parts of the brain. So expect to see a lot of flustered contestants in next week's quickfire. Sadly, what we've learned so far doesn't really tell us a thing about how they'll handle pastry, so all bets are off when it comes to predicting the quickfire. The elimination looks like another themed dinner with two-man teams. -- VERY MINOR SPOILER ALERT -- Looking at the previews, I think I can identify three of the teams. We've got Stephanie/Jennifer, Richard/Dale and Spike/Andrew (meaning, sadly, that my Mark/Andrew dream team will remain a dream for at least one more week). Richard/Dale hardly seems fair, and Stephanie/Jennifer is one heckuva strong team as well, so I'm betting on them for the top. There were clips of Spike and Andrew getting grilled, so I'll put them on the bottom, but it's hard to take a stab at the other bottom feeders, not knowing who of the remaining four chefs will be paired with who. I'm getting this eerie feeling that Spike goes and Nikki goes on to more completely fulfill her inner Midgley.
Discuss!

Power Rankings on Monday this week... I hope.
![]() | |
| Dominic Armato | |
![]() | |
| Dominic Armato | |
![]() | |
| Dominic Armato | |
![]() | |
| Dominic Armato | |
![]() | |
| Dominic Armato | |
![]() | |
| Dominic Armato | |
We'd love to return. And we'll be in Baltimore for another 15 months, so who knows, we might even have the chance (I'm looking at you, grandmas and grandpas).
| Cinghiale | |
| www.cinghiale-osteria.com | |
| 822 Lancaster St. | |
| Baltimore, MD 21202 | |
| 410-547-8282 | |
| Mon - Thu | 5:30 PM - 10:00 PM |
| Fri - Sat | 5:30 PM - 11:00 PM |
| Sun | 5:00 PM (single seating) |
![]() |
What a great quickfire! She still hasn't updated her blog, but I bet that was Lee Anne's brainchild. Antonia mentioned seeing blindfold challenges on Top Chef before, but I don't remember anything like this -- is my memory that poor? At any rate, here's a very tough challenge. As a number of the gotcha studies when it comes to tasting have illustrated, even people who do this for a living don't always taste as well as they think they do. My only annoyance was the fact that the prices of the ingredients were so prominently featured. Expensive does NOT equal better. And if I wasn't 90% certain that Lee Anne was wrangling the ingredients, I'd be suspicious that they were simply working off of price rather than actual taste (Update 4/12: Lee Anne's blog is up, she was wrangling, and she agrees -- some ingredients were left out of the tasting because the cheaper version was better). Even then, I think the suggestion that all ingredients exist on a continuum of low quality to high quality is kind of a narrow view. The characteristics that peg an ingredient as "low quality" sometimes have their benefits. Wonder Bread isn't a good crusty artisanal sourdough, that's for sure, but I'm not going to try to make a breakfast strata with the latter. But still, the ingredients we saw were, for the most part, ones where you're rarely going to have a compelling reason to choose a lower quality for reasons other than cost or availability.
As for the elimination, can we get an individual challenge, already? We've had ONE. Yeah, I know, it's a lot of chefs, but trying to delve into who's doing what is getting ridiculous. You'll note that after Spike and Manuel mutually refused to throw each other under the bus last week, Tom was in the kitchen finding out what each chef was working on before they knew they were on the chopping block. It's something he's going to have to continue for a while.
There's very little movement in the rankings this week, partially because as the season goes on we have more track history to refer to, and partially because there was even less information to go on than last week. But there are still some significant shifts, starting right at the top.
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
Hey, look! Faux caviar!
(Try it one more time, buddy, I dare you. I doub-- I triple dog dare you.) |
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
"I feel like I really wasn't understood in this game." Translation: It's not my fault I didn't show the judges anything, it's their fault for not seeing what I didn't show them. "My team broke down, and I was the one holding the team together, but that wasn't made clear." Translation: It's not my fault the carpaccio failed, it was my teammates'. I was really the one holding the team together behind the scenes. Pay no attention to those mushrooms. "Anybody that met me in this experience would know that I'm a good person." Translation: If you only knew what I'm like as a person, you'd understand that the food I served you didn't actually suck. "It's all a matter of interpretation... that's all a matter of the judges basically deciding who they think is possibly more creative, or more entertaining, or whatever. And I'm not really interested in being a celebrity or being entertaining." Translation: The reason I lost wasn't because I pitched a tent on the chopping block starting with week three, and it wasn't because I was responsible for what they considered to be the most important component of the dish that finally got me kicked out. It's all because I'm not a good TV personality. "What they're looking for the Top Chef to be is probably not me, and I'm fine with that. I'm actually okay with it. It would have been nice to be Top Chef, it would have been nice to get further along in the game, but I'm not willing to sacrifice who I am in order to further myself in this particular game." Translation: I don't need you assholes and your stupid competition anyway. You can't fire me, I quit. Classy exit there, Zoi. |
Up next: no clues about the quickfire, but an individual elimination challenge! Finally! Probably! Maybe! And it looks like they're serving tailgate food to Bears fans. Being from Chicago, Stephanie knows this crowd and a lot of her dishes have meat and potatoes appeal. I think we see her in the top again. This does not play well to Richard's strengths, and he might have another bad week before bouncing back. If Dale wants to get away from Asian a bit, this is his chance. I bet he does well, especially because his pork skewers at the block party demonstrated that he understands downscale food still has to be interesting and good, and also that he isn't going to condescend to people just because they're at a football game. And tailgate food just seems right up Lisa's alley for some reason. So I'll peg Stephanie, Dale and Lisa for the top three and we'll give Dale the win, with Jennifer running as a dark horse on the quality of her sliders at the block party and the fact that she's pissed. On the bottom... gosh, who's left? This actually seems like a challenge that Nikki could be up to, so she might take another step towards being this season's Midgley, mysteriously surviving much longer than she should...... nah, she screws something up. We'll throw mistake-prone Ryan in there as well. And nothing says 20 degree kickoff like faux caviar, so what the hell, we'll throw Andrew into the bottom three as well, with Antonia as the dark horse, mostly because I have a hard time picturing what she'd make for a tailgate party and bold flavors don't seem to be her strong point. I say Nikki goes. I hope Nikki goes. (Please let Nikki go).
Discuss!
![]() | |
| Dominic Armato | |
For a long time now, the short answer to the "what's the difference between pancetta and bacon" question has been that bacon is smoked, pancetta isn't. This wasn't entirely true, as I believe smoked pancetta has always been present (if uncommon) in some pockets of Northern Italy, but for all practical purposes, at least in the States, it was true. But a recent development is complicating that answer somewhat, as Leoncini has started to import a smoked version of slab pancetta. It got a quick mention in the New York Times about a month ago and I've been anxious to get my hands on it since. With my Baltimore-based guanciale search coming up empty, I need a new pet pork product anyway. So this past week I was chatting with Nino, my neighbor and friend who is one of the owners of Il Scalino next door, when he happened to mention that he was getting in some special smoked pancetta from Italy the next day. 24 hours later, I was walking out with a pound, half of it in one large chunk, and half of it sliced super thin.
It's good. Really good. But it's not the shocking departure that you might expect. It's nothing like regular pancetta, to be sure. Essentially, it's bacon. Really, really good bacon. I want to say that it's a little cleaner and sweeter than the typical American slab bacon to which I'm accustomed, but it's still a very strong smoke and, in any case, it's extremely good. I spent the weekend playing around with it a bit, and frankly, my favorite usage so far is just to eat it as-is, sliced paper thin, with a good crusty bread and maybe a little cheese or fruit. There are a couple of ideas that are still percolating, but in the meantime, here's one quick and easy dish I've made with it. This hardly merits a recipe -- it's just a simple five-minute vegetable dish -- but I thought it worked nicely. For the Baltimore folks, if you want to pick some up, I'd recommend calling first. They were already running low.
![]() Dominic Armato
3 oz. smoked pancetta 1/4 C. diced onion 12-15 small Brussels sprouts 1 1/2 tsp. balsamic vinegar | |
This is a dish that you sauté up very quickly, not unlike a stir-fry (in fact, a wok would be a great way to make it), so you want to have all of your ingredients prepped and ready to go next to the stove before you get cooking.
Slice the pancetta into short strips about 1/4" wide and 1/8" inch thick. Remove the stems from the sprouts and discard them. Slice the sprouts into little rounds about 1/4" thick, or a little thinner. Some will hold their shape and some will fall apart to make a pile of shredded sprouts. That's exactly what you want. You should have about 2 C. worth.
Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan over medium high heat and, when it gets hot, add the pancetta. Sauté the pancetta, stirring constantly, until some of the fat has rendered and the pancetta has softened a little. Then add the onion and continue sautéing until the onions soften just slightly and the pancetta has gotten just a touch crispy around the edges. This should only take a minute or two. Add the Brussels sprouts and continue stir-frying until the sprouts have turned bright green, just thirty seconds to a minute. Finally, add the vinegar, scraping up anything that's stuck to the bottom of the pan, and toss the mixture with the vinegar for about 30 seconds.
Remove from the heat, salt to taste (the pancetta is pretty salty, so you might not need any) and serve right away.
![]() |
Start with the fact that there are no quickfire recipes posted this week. Makes sense, since it was largely an exercise in knife work, but it means that we have absolutely no idea what the six chefs who weren't featured did. Too bad, since this was really a great opportunity to get a good sense of who's technically sound and who isn't. Then, everybody pairs off. Are the strong chefs pulling the weaker ones up? Are the weaker ones dragging the strong ones down? Mercifully, the recipes posted for the elimination challenge called out which portions of the dish were prepared by which chef. If we can take them at their word, this made for some surprises.
The top half of the rankings were easy. The bottom half, plagued with inconsistency and breaks from the first three episodes, were agonizing. I thought it was going to be a couple more weeks before elimination predictions got tough, but this week turned everything upside down. At this point, I feel pretty confident that the top six will be the final six, Andrew being the only one who gives me pause. But as for the bottom six? Heck... any of them could go at any time. It all depends on who shows up.
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
So now, looking forward, we know we have Ming Tsai and a very large-scale elimination challenge. Let's guess that it'll be an East Meets West quickfire, and since I can't see them having the chefs do individual preps for 350(!) people, I think we're looking at ANOTHER team challenge. On the top end, Richard makes some crack about the Blais charm wearing off, but for all we know that's from episode eight. Assuming it's East/West or modern fusion, Dale should rock the quickfire, and I wager he'll carry that over into the elimination. He's had his taste of the top and he's pumped, now. For the others, it's going to come down to who can handle scale intelligently, but I'm not sure that the manner in which they handled canapés and picnic fare is a good indication of how they'll handle banquet food. Stephanie's the only one among the upper echelon who's demonstrated poor judgment in that regard, and I feel an off week coming for Richard, so we'll say Dale, Mark and Antonia for the top three. All of this is meaningless, of course, if it's a team challenge, which it almost certainly will be. So, between our forth consecutive team challenge and the turmoil in the bottom half of the rankings, it's really hard to predict the bottom, but here goes. Spike has shown some affinity for Asian and handled scale very well at the zoo challenge, so I'm guessing he's safe. I want to think that Lisa and Jennifer have been solid enough at this point that they're probably okay. So I think we're looking at Nikki and Zoi for the ouster, and Ryan went bad-good-bad-good the first four weeks, so he's due for another bad week and we'll throw him in there as well. Insightful, I know. Zoi's on death watch, but Nikki's totally screwed up both of her large-scale challenges, so I think we have to make them co-favorites for elimination.
Discuss!
![]() |
Comments