« December 2008 | Main | February 2009 »

January 28, 2009

Top Chef Postmortem - Episode 10

Hey, all! I’m traveling and working on a project that has me pretty tied up at the moment, so I couldn’t watch tonight’s show or get the postmortem up. I’ll be back for the Power Rankings in a few days, but in the meantime, my buddy Jake is taking over postmortem duties so we can get the discussion rolling.

(Note: I'm filling in for Dom for the night -- he'll be back soon! Be gentle with me, Stefan.)

Well, that was a weird challenge, wasn't it? I mean, I can't quibble too much with the outcome, although it looked for a bit like it could have gone really badly.

Based on the editing, I think it's being implied that Jeff, while a creative and hard-working chef, just hasn't been hitting on all flavor cylinders. As Stefan pointed out, I can't actually tell from licking my television (it's a little dusty anyway). But that's what a lot of the comments from Tom, the guest judge, and Jeff himself seem to imply. Maybe he's the anti-Ariane.

That said, I was sure it was going to be Fabio going home based on the overcooked venison. It seemed like everyone else, Fabio included, thought so too. Looks like we can get a monkeyass comment for three weeks in a row, so that's a plus.

Although I'm going based on impressions again, it felt like Stefan's dish was pretty solid. It didn't get criticized much, and it sounded like a lot of the comments that were spoken while they were showing Stefan's salads were actually about Fabio's. Tricksy editors.

Here's my problem with the elimination challenge: Stefan and Jamie both split the judges' votes. Jamie won an extra "fan" or two, so ended up on the winner's side where Stefan ended up a loser. That seems like a pretty arbitrary distinction to me, especially since some of the winners' dishes didn't seem all that great.

Props to Carla for knocking this one out of the park. It was kind of a quirky challenge even aside from the winning/losing criteria, with only 20 minutes of actual cooking time and the constraints of cooking to a specific regional theme. It looks like they may also have been limited to, or in some way constrained by, a basket of "thematic" ingredients. Not positive how that worked though. "Sometimes you gotta have quick love," she said. I'm so with you on that one, Hootie hoo. Enjoy watching the Steelers wreck the Cardinals on Sunday.

How does this affect your personal rankings? I'm not knocking Stefan down in mine -- dude dropped one after winning five in a row. I'm not worried. Plus, I'm guessing he was responsible for the "Top Chef / Douches" scorecard, which made my night. But now I'll get out of the way and let you discuss.

UPDATE : Waheeeeey! I disappear for one freaking episode and all Top Chef hell breaks loose? (Dom again, BTW) The Florida chef who spent years on a fishing boat goes down for ceviche? Hootie wins a solo elimination? Stefan is beaten by Andrea?!?!?!?! I can't even imagine how this all went down, and I can't watch the episode until very late Friday night. Crazy. Anyway, talk amongst yourselves. I'll just have to sit back and watch for now.

Top Chef Power Rankings - Episode 9

PLEASE READ BEFORE COMMENTING!!!
There's a lot of sneaky intel out there, especially this season, but I'm endeavoring to keep this blog a spoiler-free zone. This isn't just for the readers, but for me, too -- I don't want to know what happens! As such, anything that's already been broadcast or has been posted on the official Bravo site is fair game for discussion, but if you've heard rumors that one chef has been hosting a lot of dinner parties, or that another chef was spotted boarding a plane to an exotic locale, please keep them to yourself... thanks!

Abbreviated edition!

The good news is that I'm hanging out in San Francisco and having some great eats (no camera on hand, but a REALLY good meal at Laiola last night... check it out). The bad news is that it was a last minute thing, I've been trying to carve out some time for the Power Rankings, and it just wasn't happening. I don't even have access to the episode. So for this week, Power Rankings lite!

Let's skip past the quickfire and get straight to Restaurant Wars. First off, I've heard a lot of complaints that this year's Restaurant Wars was yet more evidence of this year's substandard cast. I have to ask, have we been watching the same show for the last four seasons? Blais, Stephanie and Antonia rocked last season. Other than that, when has a Restaurant Wars restaurant been a success? It's an impossible mission, and that's part of its charm. While this year's restaurants had their problems -- significant ones at that -- I actually came away impressed that they both seemed relatively functional, as opposed to some of the total train wrecks of previous seasons.

There's also some grumbling that too much emphasis was placed on non-food issues. But if not for the non-food issues, what's the point of even doing Restaurant Wars? I'm a fan of keeping it simple and keeping the focus on the food, but historically speaking what has made Restaurant Wars fun was the opportunity to widen the focus a bit -- just for one show -- in a manner that's still highly relevant for a collection of chefs, most of whom run or aspire to run restaurants.

What seems puzzling to many, and what the commenters here have mostly sorted out at this point, is that Sahana appeared to have the better food of the evening, so it seemed surprising that there was enough of a difference in service to push Sunset Lounge over the top. In something of an unusual twist for the Top Chef editors, if Lee Anne's blog is to be believed (and I see no reason why it shouldn't), they may have actually undersold Sahana's problems on that front. Sahana inexplicably bunched a ton of reservations at 11:00, and had Lee Anne's friends waiting until 11:40 to be seated. What's more, upon doing so, Radhika "rudely" informed them they'd have just 20 minutes to eat, and complained about how difficult it is to be on the show. In short, yeah, you want to focus on the food. But when the accompanying front of house experience makes it impossible to enjoy said food, you've got a problem -- even on Top Chef.

Not a whole lot of movement this week. We're mostly settled in and waiting to see if there are any surprise eliminations in the next three weeks. And for those who haven't been paying attention, we're three eliminations from the finals. Which means at least one out of Leah, Hosea, Fabio and Carla will make it... and quite possibly more of them.

The power rankings are not purely a prediction of who is most likely to win, or an assessment of last episode's dishes, or a reflection of the contestants' historical performance, but rather a nebulous amalgam of all three, combined with a little bit of gut feeling, to provide a relative measure of current awesomeness.

Wins
Top
Bottom
1 Stefan Quickfires
2
4
1
Last Week: 1 Eliminations
3
5
0
Stefan only solidifies his grip on the top spot this week, coming through as one of Sunset Lounge's saviors and the guy Radhika may be kicking herself for not picking. His desserts were exactly what I hope to see from Top Chef contestants. He worked in some nice little creative touches that made them stand out and complemented the restaurant's theme perfectly. His orange chocolate rice parfait was an unusual little frozen combination of egg yolks, sugar, chocolate, coconut milk, coconut rum and Arborio rice, with some pineapple garnish. The panna cotta was topped with a ginger honey and seasoned with ginger, lemongrass and, most interesting to me, turmeric. The mango lollipops were a bit of a throwaway - mango, chocolate, mint and mint oil -- but it was a great little thought and the amuse was beautifully received. More importantly, the contrast with Carla was a study in the importance of staying cool and thinking on your feet. While Carla was flitting about the kitchen, freaking out and attempting to substitute love for flavor, Stefan shrugged, made a few adjustments, and banged out some mean desserts. Some can't stand his attitude. Personally, I like the guy. There's a playfulness that we don't usually get with the recipient of the jerk edit, and sometimes the difference between being a jerk and being strong-willed is being right. And as forcefully as Stefan makes his opinions known, for the most part he's been right. Whether or not his fellow contestants consider him difficult to work with, they'd do well to listen to him.
2 Jamie Quickfires
0
4
2
Last Week: 2 Eliminations
2
5
2
Jamie also puts in a strong performance, further separates herself from the pack and probably would have walked away with the win if Sahana had edged Sunset Lounge and not the other way around. She took charge when Radhika abdicated, and looks to have been the driving force behind Sahana's menu. She also turned out a decent soup (not her best, from blog accounts) and a lamb shank that was excellent, if not straight-up Middle Eastern. So we see some solid leadership, one good and one excellent dish, and the fact that she took lamb shanks from ice cubes to tender perfection in six hours puts to bed the question of whether she can handle other proteins. Did you get the jibblies when she chose a frozen protein? Me too. But she had it under control.
3 Jeff Quickfires
0
4
1
Last Week: 3 Eliminations
0
2
1
After a little break, we get to Jeff, who was a little hit and miss this week, but still looks like one of the stronger contestants. I was relieved to find that the scallop dish was his and not Jamie's, not because I wanted to see him put out a good dish (I did), but because I dreaded the comments if Jamie's contributions had been soup and scallops. In any case, Jeff's Restaurant Wars recipes are completely absent from the Bravo site this week, so all I have to go on are the comments of the judges. But while his snapper had problems (sounds like uberlight spa cuisine, which hardcore food nerds rarely appreciate), his scallops over chickpea cake were both highly creative and well-received. I like his style, I like his creativity, and I like the fact that despite being the pretty boy, he puts his head down and works. He'll probably make the finals, and I hope he does -- they'll be more interesting with him around.
4 Hosea Quickfires
1
5
0
Last Week: 6 Eliminations
1
2
2
I'd like to see somebody stronger this high, but I kind of have to put Hosea here by default. That said, I don't think it's fair to consider him a non-factor. He's quietly been one of the more consistent contestants, avoiding the bottom for his food since episode two (not counting, of course, his bottom appearance for failing to rescue Ariane). He hasn't capitalized on some early promise and some of his dishes still seem unnecessarily heavy handed to me (shrimp with potato puree and Madeira mushroom cream to impress Stephen Starr?), but he's making decent food with his own personal style. He's not going to win, but I think you have to consider him the favorite for the fourth spot at this point, and he won't embarrass himself in the finals if he makes it.
5 Fabio Quickfires
0
2
3
Last Week: 7 Eliminations
1
4
0
Similarly, I don't like putting Fabio this high, but Carla's presence and Leah's recent performance has kind of handcuffed me. If he was going to get a bump, I suppose getting a bump for the episode when he could use his charm (which is apparently starting to wear thin on some) to full effect. But to dismiss his contribution as a cute accent simply isn't fair. Front of house isn't about simply being charming. It's about being aware and communicating, ensuring that everything is running smoothly, stepping into situations that aren't to ensure they're defused without ruffled feathers, and making sure the front and back are working with each other instead of against each other. Unlike Radhika, who is buried in the kitchen in Chicago, Fabio is reportedly a very visible presence in his joint, and it showed this week. What he did was not easy, and he deserves full credit for it. That said, I don't expect it will have any bearing whatsoever on the rest of the competition. So, good show, Fabio. Now bring the food or get kicked right back down to the bottom.
6 Leah Quickfires
3
4
2
Last Week: 6 Eliminations
0
2
1
People are going to howl that Leah is above Carla. Yes, I know, we love Carla and Leah has been making a total ass of herself. But again, I'm trying ot take a dispassionate view here. They've both been in a lot of trouble lately, but as inconsistently as she's done so, there's no getting around the fact that Leah has delivered multiple example of finals worthy food while Carla's delivered great tart crust. Heck, I'm starting to get the sense that all Leah needs to sew this thing up is lie down for a nap when the elimination challenge starts, and set her alarm for 20 minutes before food has to be on the table. She looks burned out and she's obviously in danger. But what keeps her out of the basement is that she could easily rocket back to the top if she gets her head on straight, and if she hangs on to make the finals and gets a little rest and motivation, she won't just compete -- she'll have a real shot at winning.
7 Carla Quickfires
0
2
1
Last Week: 8 Eliminations
1
2
3
Carla, on the other hand, much as I love her, just isn't Top Chef finals material. She fell down where she's previously been strong. She let technical issues throw her off her game. And perhaps most importantly, I think her sunshine and happiness approach is starting to wear thin at Judges' Table. We appreciate that you put love into your food, Carla, but that isn't a substitute for actual flavor. And while some have said that "love" is common chefly shorthand for layers of flavors, I don't think that's what she means. She's attempting to operate on the metaphysical plane, here. In any case, she narrowly escaped this week, and her days are numbered.
8 Radhika Quickfires
3
3
2
Last Week: 4 Eliminations
0
3
1
I'm sad to see Radhika go. She would have been an interesting presence in the finals. But it's clear that she was just done. For those who aren't aware, Top Chef is grueling. We watch it over the span of many months, but the main shoot takes place over the course of a few weeks. These challenges -- with all of their brutally long days, sleepless nights, endless stew room stays and judges wandering in to wake you up at all kinds of weird hours -- are all crammed into a few weeks. It not just sadism on the producers' part. When you're shooting a show, time is money. Long shoot = expensive shoot. Getting everything done as quickly as possible is simply a matter of economy. But in this case, we're getting close to the finish line and these guys are dragging. Radhika just looked like she had nothing left, and nothing is exactly what she did. Despite winning team leader, she completely abdicated. What did she do? She didn't cook. She didn't oversee the menu (Jamie seemed to have overtaken that responsibility), she didn't steer the ship, she didn't manage the reservations book, and she didn't communicate with the kitchen during service. She named the restaurant and treated her guests rather brusquely and walked around in a daze. It's sweet that she named her restaurant after her niece. Too bad it couldn't have been a better tribute. There's no question that she deserved to go.

No spoilers today! Mostly because I haven't been able to check the website video (running late for work as it is!). Sorry for phoning it in this week, folks. I won't be able to see tonight's show until I get home late Friday, but it looks like a friend of mine will be running the postmortem, so check back to discuss. And I look forward to getting back on the horse next week as we move into the finals.

Discuss!

January 21, 2009

Top Chef Postmortem - Episode 9

That's a shame.

Those still angry with Leah are doubly pissed now, I imagine, having been right on the edge of tasting sweet, sweet retribution. And those who can't stand Stefan now have another reason to hate him -- saving Leah's bacon. (Incidentally, say what you will about Stefan... the dude was in control.)

Anyway, this is exactly what I was afraid of. I hate to see an interesting chef go home without even cooking anything. Radhika had done some interesting stuff, I was looking forward to more, and the fact that she piqued Starr's interest made her departure all the more disappointing. Not that I'm complaining. She made her own bed. And while they could have just as easily axed Carla (and I wish they had, much as I like her), I can't argue with the selection.

Incidentally, is it just me or did this episode have more great lines than the rest of the season to date? Too bad none of them came from the guy who was ostensibly put here for his one-liners. (Still down on Toby, in case it wasn't clear.)

Here's hoping the Holeah awkwardness is less annoying than the Holeah romance. At least the completely unscientific poll showed 88% of the viewers uninterested in this little daytime drama tangent. Hope the producers take note. We. Don't. Care.

Holy cow, guys, we're getting down to the wire here. Only three more eliminations to the finals!

Discuss!

Top Chef Power Rankings - Episode 8

PLEASE READ BEFORE COMMENTING!!!
There's a lot of sneaky intel out there, especially this season, but I'm endeavoring to keep this blog a spoiler-free zone. This isn't just for the readers, but for me, too -- I don't want to know what happens! As such, anything that's already been broadcast or has been posted on the official Bravo site is fair game for discussion, but if you've heard rumors that one chef has been hosting a lot of dinner parties, or that another chef was spotted boarding a plane to an exotic locale, please keep them to yourself... thanks!

Hokay... lots of ground to cover this week. Where to start?

The quickfire. Kind of a throwaway, and as many have pointed out, a disappointing waste of Hung. Though, to be fair, we've said that about a number of guest judges over the years. As questionable product challenges go, I thought this wasn't too bad. It certainly beat both the gas station and the vending machine. There was some scary looking stuff in that box, but there were a few items that looked perfectly usable. As mentioned last week, I'm more bothered by the fifteen minute limit than the ingredients. Either/or, okay, but putting the two together was just setting the chefs up for failure, and I'm frustrated by challenges where they don't at least have the opportunity to shine. All things considered, though, they managed fairly well.

The elimination was awesome, and while there's been much gnashing of teeth over how the contestants handled it, for the most part I didn't mind their approach one bit. The simplicity of the dishes is being touted as the final nail in the coffin of a substandard season. Whether or not this crowd is one of the weaker ones is still, I think, an open question. But I take issue with those who consider the simple, straightforward approaches taken here as evidence of such. Anybody who's been reading this blog knows I'm big on creativity. If anything, I place too much importance on the chefs' ability to innovate and surprise. And yet, for this particular challenge, I was pleased that we got some very stripped-down, basic dishes, even if they didn't all execute as well as they should have. You have the freshest possible ingredients, and you're serving family style to the farmers who grew and bred them surrounded by the farm where they ply their trade. What time could possibly be more appropriate to ditch the pretension and cook some straightforward, honest, comforting food that does as little to distract from the ingredients' natural flavors as possible? In this particular case, I'm firmly of the belief that going ultra-simple wasn't indicative of a lack of skill, but rather of good judgment.

And while we're on the subject of how this season's crowd stacks up, I think it's still too early to be passing final judgment. But I'll take this opportunity to remind folks of a few things. First, we're coming off of a really exceptional season in season four. That's a tough, tough yardstick to be measured against. But even so, Blais and Stephanie were not as invincible as people seem to remember. I also frequently hear references to the fantastic finish in season three with Hung, Dale and Casey all bringing serious game. What those people forget is that there was a SHARP dropoff after those three (well, and Tre), and that Casey and Dale both came on very strong in the last 5-6 weeks. For the first half of the season, it looked like Hung and Tre and a bunch of schlubs. In season two, Ilan won. Need I go on? Point being, I think the fact that season four was so top-heavy and that we're so close on its tail -- just a few months, really -- has painted all "previous seasons" a shade of rose that may not be warranted. This may yet prove to be one of the weaker seasons, but as far as I'm concerned, the jury's out and it's not the given that some seem to feel it is.

As for the controversy du jour, I suppose it's about time that people started getting emotional, but that emotion seems to be obfuscating some basic facts, and I think whatever side of the fence you fall on, if you look at it dispassionately I think you have to acknowledge that a solid case could be built for either Ariane or Leah's departure. With that in mind, here's the episode eight fact police:

  • We absolutely do not know that Ariane was shoved into the lamb role. We have a pretty good idea that her teammates (willfully or obliviously) left her to twist in the wind, but the few quotes we get on the show actually seem to imply that the lamb was a mantle she seized, not one she was saddled with. Hosea stated that he was "okay with" Ariane handling the lamb, since she had won with it before, and while it was at JT and she could have been intentionally misleading the judges, Leah stated that "Ariane took the lamb." That sounds like what you say when somebody offers/insists on doing the lamb, not what you say when you push somebody into doing it. We don't know for sure, but don't assume she was shoved into this role under protest.
  • Though Leah did step in to help with the tying, Ariane was already more than halfway finished at that point. At the moment Leah takes over the tying (and while it's possible she did so earlier, we never even see Ariane request help as she claims she did), two roasts are completely tied and ready, one is halfway done, and the fourth is already rolled and ready to be tied. And we're led to believe that time was running short. One could certainly argue that Leah should have completely undone Ariane's work and started over from scratch, but I think you have to first consider the possibility that there wasn't time and she had to make do with the time she had, and second that the butchering may have been so poor that no level of tying skill was going to save it. Point being, claiming that "Leah tied the roast" is a gross oversimplification.
  • Let us not forget, tying aside, that it was Ariane who butchered the meat (in more ways than one), and Ariane who buried it under an overly aggressive rub. Though the tying received a lot of attention, it was as much about those other elements as well.
  • Though it appears they were surprised by the inclusion of both a leg of lamb and a whole baby lamb, and though Ariane has stated after the fact that she had significant misgivings about working with both, we have no indication that she expressed them to her teammates at the time, nor that she wasn't totally on board with how they finally decided to handle it.
  • Though Ariane has gone so far as to say she was "brainwash[ed]" in the aftermath, and despite the fact that it appears Leah was the first to float the roulade idea (though, to be fair to Leah, that was when they thought they'd be shopping at Whole Foods), as far as we can tell the decision to break down, tenderize and roll the lamb was a team decision. Nobody -- Ariane included -- has said that she objected and was overruled.

To be clear, many of these claims may very well be true. The point is that we just don't know. Given what we DO know, I think you can absolutely argue that Ariane deserved to go for screwing up the meat, or that Leah deserved to go for her role in the tying and general lack of enthusiasm, or that Hosea deserved to go for sitting on the sidelines despite appearing to be the most capable butcher on the team. I have my opinions on the subject and I'll share them below. But these arguments that Ariane shouldn't be faulted because she was forced to do something she wasn't comfortable with, or that the tying was the biggest problem and that was all Leah, or that this terrible decision to pound and roll the lamb wasn't on her shoulders -- given what we know, I just don't see how those arguments hold water. That's emotion talking, not evidence.

But enough about lambgate for the moment. On to the rankings:

The power rankings are not purely a prediction of who is most likely to win, or an assessment of last episode's dishes, or a reflection of the contestants' historical performance, but rather a nebulous amalgam of all three, combined with a little bit of gut feeling, to provide a relative measure of current awesomeness.

Wins
Top
Bottom
1 Stefan Quickfires
2
4
1
Last Week: 2 Eliminations
2
4
0
Stefan had himself a Jim Dandy of a week. First, he manages to pull something that looks fairly edible out of the pantry and win the quickfire, then despite having immunity he goes on to produce half his team's dishes and nails them both. The guy did some beautiful looking roasted chicken, plus a full-on chicken consommé (raft and everything) with ravioli. That's a lot to do in three hours, and though the decision to serve soup was a dumb one, people loved his food. I struggled with giving him the top spot. I really did. Jamie's style still feels, on a gut level, more like a winning style to me than Stefan's. But he's coming off another double win and Jamie continues to be inconsistent when out of her comfort zone. Plus, taking a look back, the guy hasn't been on the bottom of anything since episode two's quickfire. Put that all together and, for this week at least, I have to narrowly give him the number one spot. I'd very much like to see somebody a little more creative on top of the pile, but unless Jeff or Radhika catch fire, this is going to be a see-saw battle between Stefan and Jamie.
2 Jamie Quickfires
0
4
2
Last Week: 1 Eliminations
2
5
2
I'd like to be able to say that it was her lack of effort in the quickfire, or the fact that one of the farmers said her chicken was a little dry, or Stefan's strong performance that got me to knock her off the perch, but the truth is that I did it because she mispronounced bruschetta. Twice. Two different ways. In all seriousness, though, it was tough to knock her down after a very good elimination. The chicken looked great and was a wonderful way of bringing the protein and produce together. Plus, am I the only one who thinks her salads have an incredible visual quality? My hunch is that also translates into a great texture (I might be able to find out for myself next week -- more later). But at any rate, what (actually) cinched the drop was my growing concern over her reluctance to embrace the challenges she doesn't enjoy. I'd like to think she's smart enough to know when she can get away with coasting and when she can't, and when she's off she isn't completely phoning it in a la Leah, but there are going to be a bunch more goofy challenges before the finals, and though I think she looks the strongest when on, she's driving a little too close to the cliff's edge at times.
3 Jeff Quickfires
0
3
1
Last Week: 4 Eliminations
0
2
1
A bump up may seem odd after an inconsistent week, but that's just how this season has been, I guess. Jeff is Mr. Refinement in a season that features a lot of simple, restrained chefs and a number of creative but sometimes clumsy chefs. Refinement is what makes great fine dining, and it's what can really make you stand out in a crowd. The problem with cooking in a very refined style is that if you're not careful, it can be easy to lose the soul of the food. Like any other, it's a tool to be used or abused. In the hands of somebody like Thomas Keller, a high level of refinement serves to isolate, intensify and clearly articulate flavors. But in the hands of a lesser chef, refinement can become more about process than oomph. With Jeff, I see great recipes and sometimes lukewarm responses and I have to wonder if that's what's going on here at times. He's displayed a level of refinement that nobody else can match and he's done it very successfully, which is why I still feel he has the most breakout potential of the remaining chefs. But sometimes, it seems like the parts don't all add up for the judges. Many want to lay this at Tom's feet, suggesting that he wants simple and hearty and doesn't like it when his food is too cute. But while there's some truth to that, I think it's less a matter of being anti-refinement and more a matter of insisting that an edgy approach have a clear purpose. Blais was last season's Mr. Refinement, and Tom had no problem whatsoever falling all over himself to praise some of those dishes. Yes, he dinged Jeff for going refined rather than rustic this episode, but consider the context (though I do think he was being overly dogmatic in complaining that Jeff chose to use green tomatoes rather than ripe ones). More likely, at the risk of being redundant, I think Jeff just needs a little focus. The closer we get to the end, the more the character of the competition drifts towards his strengths. If he can meet it halfway, he'll be right there at the end.
4 Radhika Quickfires
2
2
2
Last Week: 3 Eliminations
0
3
0
Not a good week for Radhika. She was called out on the quickfire, though Hung seemed more troubled by her effort than her results. And in the elimination, she all but disappeared, though we have no indication her dish was anything shy of delicious. While I'd like to drop her a little further, I'm not really sure who else deserves to be at number four. Many say she's inconsistent. Other than Stefan, who isn't? So I'm forced to revisit her successes and failures. When she succeeds, she does so by surprising and delighting the judges. When she fails, it's by doing too little or just missing. Her successes and potential speak more to me than her failures, and so she hangs on at number four.
5 Leah Quickfires
2
3
2
Last Week: 5 Eliminations
0
2
1
This is the one that I've no doubt will make some heads explode. First, to get it out of the way, she was just terrible this week and though I think the judges made the right call, I couldn't have complained one bit if she got the boot. It's worth mentioning, however, that the comments about her dessert appear to have gotten the heavy edit. When Dan Barber makes the crack about "tray tables down, here comes the dessert", it's edited to make it appear that he's referring to the cake's flavor, but I'm not convinced he wasn't simply referring to its appearance. Don't worry, I'm with everybody else. I can't stand her right now, and the imminent face sucking isn't helping her prospects. But setting annoyance aside, in some ways she's like Radhika, just with higher peaks and lower valleys. She's the only person other than Jeff who's shown a really high level of refinement, and a couple of her dishes are among those I'd most like to try. But while I thought she was going to bust out and really bring it, I'm starting to think she's going in the other direction. That said, because of those flashes, I can't bring myself to put her below Hosea or Fabio. The fact that she's either clingy or catatonic 98% of the time is getting frustrating. She's capable of more, and I want to see it.
6 Hosea Quickfires
1
5
0
Last Week: 7 Eliminations
1
2
2
Hosea actually did a pretty nice job with the quickfire, making a little ode to processed food that still looked like it had some character and texture. Diced spam, fried onions and pork rinds are, indeed, not only an interesting way to spice up pea soup, but an almost admirable one given the circumstances. For the elimination, he does nice things with vegetables. The guy's been fairly consistent, but I'm just not getting any wow from him whatsoever. He won the benefit elimination, but that seemed more a function of his ribbons and the weakness of the others than the strength of his dish. The guy's capable, and I think he'll actually stick around longer than some of the people above him, but I just don't see him having what it takes to make a splash in the finals. For that reason, I keep him below a couple of his less consistent compatriots.
7 Fabio Quickfires
0
2
2
Last Week: 8 Eliminations
1
3
0
A lot of folks seem shocked that I have Fabio so low, and to them, I say you drank the Kool-Aid. I defended this in the comments last week, and I do so again. You have to go back to episode three -- episode three! -- for a dish that was praised by the judges without significant reservations. Seriously, count them back with me:
  • Sausage ravioli with overpowering pesto.
  • Slightly doctored mac 'n cheese.
  • Great ravioli with mediocre, undercooked lamb.
  • Oat and grain bar with mediocre cream.
  • TGI Friday's style (Lee Anne's words) crab cake with chipotle mayo.
  • Uninspiring and sloppy duck and polenta.
  • Mushy, flat blue corn encrusted bass with corn puree.
  • Sesame crusted ahi that's competent, but 20 years too late.
  • Brûléed banana with an espresso milkshake.
  • And finally, an interesting pumpkin spin on tiramisu.
This is the guy who many consider one of the real contenders? I love him. He's hysterical. I hope he sticks around to the end. But it's like people decided after episode two or three that he was one of the big guns and then completely stopped watching him. The last time we saw a good dish out of him was before Thanksgiving.
8 Carla Quickfires
0
2
1
Last Week: 9 Eliminations
1
2
2
Which is why I almost put him below even Carla. Carla's been getting a lot of support from the masses lately, and rightfully so. She's proven she's no hack. But realistically, what has she shown us? That she does some very good conventional comfort food and makes a mean tart crust. If I told you that going into the season, would you have guessed she'd have made it this far? Would you have even thought about putting her in the finals? I like Carla a lot, not least of which because she's one of the few who are acting like adults. And I'd love to eat her food. But I'm down on her for the same reason I was down on Ariane. She's yet to make a single dish that I could see the judges tasting in the finals and giving her the title. Not one. She says she doesn't wow us with "pizzazz". And it's true, you don't have to have pizzazz to win Top Chef, but your food does have to be interesting, and hers isn't especially. Plus, it isn't as though she hasn't had a nose for trouble. Still, this crowd is gaffe-prone enough that she could be around for a few weeks yet if she avoids screwing up for a while. I'd consider it a treat if Hootie stuck around for a bit. But I think she's the most likely to screw up, and the least likely to shine. That pretty much clinches the bottom spot for her.
9 Ariane Quickfires
1
2
1
Last Week: 6 Eliminations
3
4
3
While you can make the case that Leah was just as elimination-worthy, I just don't get the howling over Ariane's ouster. It's as though those who have been defending her -- quite legitimately at times -- are now doing it as a matter of reflex rather than real consideration. Maybe she was shoved into a role she wasn't comfortable with. Maybe she asked for help and didn't get it. Maybe she was dealt a less than desirable hand by having to manage two types of lamb. Maybe Leah and Hosea weren't listening to her and drove some of the bad decisions. Maybe maybe maybe. But here's what we know for sure:
  • She did a terrible job of butchering the lamb.
  • She did a terrible job of tying what lamb she did tie.
  • She straight-up admitted to the judges that she couldn't handle such a core skill.
  • I discovered the bullet point tag this week.
  • She buried the lamb's flavor with an overpowering rub.
  • She did all of this for a challenge that was explicitly about making the best possible use of some wonderfully fresh lamb
I can see how somebody might feel that Leah was marginally more worthy of elimination, but how can anybody argue that Ariane didn't deserve to go home? Add to this the fact that one of her more irritating "teamwork" habits came roaring back this week. Anybody remember back in episode two when she passed her overly sweet meringue around, then insisted that if she went home it was all her teammates' fault because they didn't say it was bad? Yes, a good teammate will taste and make suggestions, but for cryin' out loud, take responsibility for your own work. Actually, it was in the course of trying to defend herself that I think Ariane made the strongest argument for her elimination when she said, "I did the best I could with what I knew." What she was trying to say was that she gave it her best effort and that counts for something. What she was really saying was that she did her best this week and was still lousy. "A" for effort, but we're not rewarding effort here. If we were, instead of Harold, Ilan, Stephanie and Hung, our last four winners would have been Lee Anne, Marcel, Andrew and... Hung. Heck, I can get in there and try as hard as everybody else. Doesn't mean I should win. In any case, at first I was relieved that her midseason ouster would save us from more intense debates over whether or not she belongs later on. Now, I'm starting to think that the circumstances of her exit will turn her into one of those Top Chef folk icons who's remembered as being a much stronger contestant than she was, and whose elimination will be regarded as one of the great Top Chef miscarriages of justice. Nobody who watched that episode has a favorable impression of Leah right now. But let's be honest about Ariane's central role and level of culpability in the failure of the lamb. Even in the sequester house, when asked who was most likely to walk through the door that week, the consensus was Carla or Ariane. The other chefs knew she wasn't going deep. So when we're watching season nine and somebody says, "This is the worst elimination since Ariane," link them back here and remind them that she did a perfectly good job of earning that axe.

EPISODE NINE SPOILERS AHEAD!!!

Here's hoping that the craziness of Restaurant Wars means that we'll be spared the Hosea & Leah Show for at least one week. (Incidentally, I love those who believe Ariane was eliminated so they could maintain the "romance"... does anybody know ANYBODY who actually wants to watch those two?!?) Since the winners of the quickfire are the team leaders, it should be fun to see how many contestants intentionally throw the quickfire to avoid that magnifying glass. Actually, I'm thinking this season might be a good time to take that leadership mantle, and here's why. The fact that we have a hardcore restaurateur for the guest judge makes this a little more interesting and a lot more scary. These chefs are mostly back of house folk. Of course they understand what makes for a good restaurant experience, but they're buried in the food. Previous seasons, you could make great food and they'd overlook some service gaffes. But here's video of Star, itemizing all of the little things he looks for in a good restaurant experience that have nothing at all to do with the food. Conventional wisdom is that the executive chefs / team leaders are most likely to fall on their swords. But I wonder if the front of house people aren't going to suffer unusually intense scrutiny this time around. I'd hate to see a chef eliminated for issues completely unrelated to the menu and cooking, but I've got a nagging feeling it might happen. Of course, it looks like Radhika and Leah end up as our team leaders, and rallying the troops doesn't exactly seem like either's forte, so perhaps the conventional wisdom wins out. We'll see.

Discuss!

January 14, 2009

Top Chef Postmortem - Episode 8

Well, that was interesting.

I imagine this'll be one of the more controversial episodes of the season. I expect folks are already crying foul elsewhere. And to some degree, yeah, maybe she got a bit of a raw deal, but two things strike me. First, for the second or third time this season, Ariane chose to blame her teammates for not telling her there was a problem with her dish. Should they have? Sure. But here's a better solution, Ariane. Cook good food. Second, I'm not a big fan of Leah's attitude, but when her teammate can't tie a roast, I'm somewhat sympathetic. I'd be annoyed too.

It's funny... as the episode ended, I was thinking about how I was going to talk about how I was sad to see Ariane go, even though I've been a strong critic. I didn't think she should have been winning as much as she did, but I liked her. Until I watched her go scorched earth on her teammates in the exit interview, some of which was purely mean-spirited. I'm no more a fan of the Leah and Hosea show than anybody else, but there was no need for that. Too bad.

Anyway, a good show, some good information, and some help for the rankings next week, I think.

Discuss! UPDATE : I just briefly reviewed the pertinent parts of the show, and while I intend to dig a little more before Monday and hopefully another blog or two pops up that will help illuminate the situation, I wanted to issue a couple clarifications of fact for the purposes of discussion here.

1) While we get a really good look at the rolled lamb leg, it was lamb two ways. There was also some kind of lamb loin, and while it sounds like Ariane probably did the butchering, it's unclear from the edit who created it, who seasoned it, or even how it was made. So I'm not certain that we can assume Ariane was the only person with her hands in the lamb, even if she was primarily responsible for it.

2) Some seem to feel that Ariane was pushed into doing the lamb. To my viewing, this is not at all clear from the video. We never see the point where that decision was made, and in fact, Hosea says at one point that he's "okay" with Ariane doing the lamb since she won with a lamb dish earlier, which makes it sound more like he's going along with and less like he's suggesting that course of action. I think we have to consider the possibility that despite her complaints about now knowing how to handle the lamb, she might have made her own bed. To be blunt, it wouldn't be the first time this season she's actively taken on a responsibility and then blamed others when it didn't go well. But at best, it's unclear who was driving that decision.

3) It definitely seems like this team could and should have done more, but Hosea did more than just potatoes. We know Hosea also worked on some kind of haricot verts, there was swiss chard that somebody other than Ariane made, there was a lamb jus that may have been somebody else's responsibility, and I wouldn't discount the possibility that there were other vegetables we never saw. Bottom line is that I don't think we're getting a complete picture of what Team Lamb produced. Anyway, I'll probably hold off on further commentary until Monday, but I thought a little clarification was in order.

Top Chef Power Rankings - Episode 7

PLEASE READ BEFORE COMMENTING!!!
There's a lot of sneaky intel out there, especially this season, but I'm endeavoring to keep this blog a spoiler-free zone. This isn't just for the readers, but for me, too -- I don't want to know what happens! As such, anything that's already been broadcast or has been posted on the official Bravo site is fair game for discussion, but if you've heard rumors that one chef has been hosting a lot of dinner parties, or that another chef was spotted boarding a plane to an exotic locale, please keep them to yourself... thanks!

Wow! Seems like it's been weeks since the last power rankings.

Ah... right.

This week's episode kicks off with a total head-scratcher. Clearly, the chefs weren't obligated to use Diet Dr. Pepper, yet Ariane and Stefan did. Was that really their choice? Was there some kind of incentive to do so? Strange. Even more puzzling, the "sugar free" challenge where granulated was verboten but drowning your dish in honey or agave syrup was just peachy. Seems kind of arbitrary and pointless. Predictably, we got spotty results. Here's hoping this gets dessert out of their system for a while. I feel like we've seen more desserts in the first half of season five than in the previous four combined. For the record, I don't consider this a good thing.

The long-anticipated elimination was really structured beautifully, I thought. Tom seems to suggest that this was a rare instance where he helped design the challenge, and if so, kudos. Hearing that peer criticism and, in turn, criticizing their peers had to have hammered home just how critical every detail is and how sharp they have to be in everything they do. Judges' Table shines an awfully bright light on the contestants' flaws, and this was an elegant way of not only making that light brighter (a remarkable feat, really), but more credible to the chefs, as well -- even if the whole "blind tasting" aspect was a total farce. Put the chefs in Column A, the dishes in Column B and let them start drawing lines, and other than Toby Young and Novelli, there isn't a single person at that table who doesn't score 100%. The dishes might as well have had name cards, they were so demonstrative of their chefs' respective styles.

And frankly, this only strengthens the vague feeling of disappointment that I felt after watching the elimination. The anticipation may have simply been too great with such a long layoff, but while I agree that this was one of the season's better episodes I must confess that I'm a little disappointed with the results of the no-holds-barred "wow us" challenge. The food definitely took a step up, but I wasn't wowed, and neither were the judges. I've been preaching patience to those who would declare this the weakest field since season two, and I still have to believe we're going to see better in the latter half of the season, but a little bit of doubt is starting to set in. It may make for a tight race and good TV, but watching this week's episode made me feel like I may have restored the number one spot a little too quickly.

How ridiculously tight is this group, though? We're now down to nine and I don't think anything could possibly shock me next week. Maybe Carla winning an elimination, but that's it. Anybody could go, anybody could win, and you start to get the sense that that's how it's going to be every single week from here on out. You know the usual three or four chef scrum in the middle of the pack that's shown both good and bad and is inconsistent yet promising enough that you almost feel as though you could select their order at random? This season, that scrum is the top eight spots. I think only about half the group has a real shot at winning, but the finals? Anybody's game. Anybody's.

The power rankings are not purely a prediction of who is most likely to win, or an assessment of last episode's dishes, or a reflection of the contestants' historical performance, but rather a nebulous amalgam of all three, combined with a little bit of gut feeling, to provide a relative measure of current awesomeness.

Wins
Top
Bottom
1 Jamie Quickfires
0
4
1
Last Week: 1 Eliminations
1
4
2
I expect this will be an unpopular pick, but I take my notes and I keep reading them and re-reading them and Jamie keeps floating to the top for me. She's flawed, sure, but who isn't? I see two common lines of criticism among those who feel she belongs lower in the rankings, and they're not without merit, but I think they're overblown. First is that she's mistake-prone and could blow a dish at any minute. Perhaps, but the only person who's less mistake-prone, I think, is Stefan. This isn't exactly a gaffe-free field. What's more, those two heinous mistakes that landed her on the chopping block were undercooking an egg by a few seconds in a timed presentation, and not keeping her raw scallops cold enough while at a banquet station (or, arguably, not stopping to think that a banquet might not be the easiest place to keep raw scallops cold). In both cases they created big problems, but they're both small mistakes that I don't see as an indictment of her overall skill and, more importantly, I'm not sure I buy the theory that they're predictive of future mistakes. (Incidentally, when Tom said he thought those scallops were a product she should have reconsidered serving raw, I really hope he meant those particular scallops and not scallops in general. With the possible exception of really good bluefin otoro, scallops sit atop my personal raw seafood pecking order, and if Tom doesn't appreciate them without a sear or a cure, that's definitely HIS problem.) The other common complaint is that she only makes soups and scallops. You could just as easily say that Radhika only does Indian or Carla only does comfort food. As long as they stay creative and compelling within that framework, it's a non-issue. It is, admittedly, sometimes a fine line between expressing a personal style and getting in a rut, but I think Jamie's on the right side of that line. In any case, when I look at what's coming out of the kitchen and picturing the kinds of dishes that I can see winning the finals, Jamie's behind more of them than anybody else, and with this inconsistent field, that's enough to keep her on top for now.
2 Stefan Quickfires
1
3
1
Last Week: 3 Eliminations
1
3
0
Stefan has actually pulled a bit of an Ariane the past couple of weeks (and Ariane pulled a bit of a Stefan this week, but we'll get to that). The man executes, and up until recently he's been standing out with subtle little touches that make the dishes his. But recently, that restrained creativity has been less evident bordering on AWOL. Of his last four dishes, we've seen a Celtic goulash, chicken pot pie and a duck with pretzel dumplings and cabbage that, by his own description, is the soul of his home. Fine dishes all, but the savvy of some of his earlier offerings will need to return as we get into the final weeks. I've no doubt it will, and given the lack of strong movers I'm not inclined to ding him for this turn towards the conservative, but it is notable.
3 Radhika Quickfires
2
2
1
Last Week: 5 Eliminations
0
3
0
Her recent soup issue and Toby Young's groaners notwithstanding, Radhika's making a believer out of me. I've long been skeptical of a style that initially seemed more flash than substance, but her success refutes that impression and I find myself increasingly charmed by the dishes she's putting out. They are interesting, they are mostly very good, and they are hers, the importance of which cannot be overstated. I don't doubt that she usually nails that bisque, and I suspect the fact that it was overspiced was a result of overcompensation when it didn't initially live up to her standards. Plus, as Tom notes in his blog, this was a good dish at heart, just a "bit overspiced". Her dessert, though, was the only one out of the entire crowd that made me pay attention. A bread pudding with honey, cinnamon, ginger, lavender and peaches? Sign me up. We'll see if it continues, but she's been hitting a groove the past few weeks, and I think it'll take more than an overspiced soup to knock her out of it.
4 Jeff Quickfires
0
2
1
Last Week: 4 Eliminations
0
2
1
You get the feeling that if Jeff could just learn to do less, he could jump right to the top. When he's restricted to a single component of a trio, he makes a tomato sorbet that blows people away. When he finally manages to exercise a little restraint at the banquet, he puts together a cheese and beet dish that wows the judges and, quite possibly, misses the win because he uses two cheeses instead of simply sticking to one. Then he says to himself that a family style dinner is obviously the perfect time to send out what is essentially a collection of amuses, and gets himself into trouble once again. In his defense, I think this elimination challenge was a bit of a contradiction in terms for him. The chefs were instructed to serve a family style dish that shows who they are. How is the guy supposed to reconcile a simple, common platter format with a thirty components, artfully combined style? His failure, though unfortunate, is understandable -- not to mention far from decisive, given the raves he still received from both Toby and Novelli. What were they raving about? Fried oyster with saffron aioli and fennel chorizo (which, BTW, he made from scratch), prosciutto wrapped ricotta salata with grilled peaches and arugula, and tuna with grapefruit marmalade, asparagus ribbons and avocado sorbet. Tom wasn't incorrect in his criticism -- wrong place, wrong time -- but if Jeff figures it out, he's the one person who seems like he has the potential to run away with this thing.
5 Leah Quickfires
2
3
1
Last Week: 2 Eliminations
0
2
0
Dropping Leah from number two is, I think, less of a change and more of a correction, but I'm still higher on her than most seem to be. She's maddeningly inconsistent, tossing in these delightfully compelling and sharp-looking dishes from time to time before regressing into slacker mode and sticking some plain braised poultry and squash puree on top of puff pastry. Her elimination dish didn't quite hit on all cylinders, it would seem, but it's a perfect example of the kind of dish that makes me pay attention. Fish with a crust of bread frozen and sliced paper-thin on a mandoline? Beans taken into a new textural realm through frying before being dressed with caramelized onion, lemon zest, mint and cilantro? Introducing chorizo to a dish in a less aggressive manner by converting it into broth and pitching the solids? This is fascinating stuff, made all the more impressive by her claim that it was a completely new dish. Much like Jeff, if she can figure it out and get these ideas hitting on all cylinders, she could go very big very quickly.
6 Ariane Quickfires
1
2
1
Last Week: 8 Eliminations
3
4
2
As is probably evident by the ranking, I'm still not sold -- but let it not be said that I can't give credit where credit is due. That Ariane has been executing is not a matter for debate. But the skate dish she turned out in this week's elimination is the first she's made that I could see in the finals. I'll even step up and defend Ariane from those who are tearing down this week's offering by saying that skate with brown butter caper sauce is as clichéd as they come. They'd be right, except for that pesky pineapple. As I've said time and time again, simple creative touches can have a big impact, and anybody who insists on denigrating a successful attempt to bring a sweet, tropical angle to a savory, nutty classic isn't coming at this with an open mind. That said, this was one dish. If she can keep this up, I'll give those wins the full weight that they'd ordinarily deserve. But as it stands, this is a fluke... not a trend. That long history of utterly conventional (if crisply executed) dishes still carries more weight than this glowing exception, so I can't move her any higher just yet. But should she continue to climb the rankings, while most would probably identify the back-to-back-to-back wins after her early troubles as the turning point, I say this was the moment -- for the purposes of this competition -- that she went from cook to chef.
7 Hosea Quickfires
1
4
0
Last Week: 7 Eliminations
1
2
1
Hosea is a guy I'd like to put higher, but I can't for the life of me figure out where to squeeze him in. Like Jeff and Leah, one of his greatest attributes is that he hasn't gotten into a lot of trouble, and while most of his dishes don't quite garner top mention, he's had a few impressive successes that indicate he could go deep if he could be a little more consistent. In the end, I think the reason I have him below those two is because I see his issues as less correctable. He seems to sometimes get a little heavy-handed and clumsy, and rather than an obstacle to overcome, I get the impression that that's precisely who he is.
8 Fabio Quickfires
0
2
2
Last Week: 6 Eliminations
1
3
0
It's hard not to feel that Fabio got off to a good start and has been in steady decline ever since. We're not talking the dramatic crash that was Gene's deconstructed sushi, but rather a struggle to stand out that grows with each passing week. Everything is coming out flat or not quite right, and while I admire his courage in bringing MG techniques to Italian cuisine, it doesn't seem to be working (nor am I convinced that Italian cuisine isn't inherently a poor venue for the novel and the whiz-bang). If he could successfully pull off Italian in a highly technical and creative modern context, that really would be something and I suspect it's what got him on the show (well, aside from his accent, of course), but after his initial success with the olives, everything else has just come across as clumsy and/or unnecessary. Italian is a rustic cuisine at heart. Bringing it into a hypermodern context is a steep hill to climb, and much as I like Fabio, I doubt he's the chef to do it.
9 Toby Smug Putdowns
0
0
7
Last Week: n/a Filmic Similes
0
1
2
Before this week's episode, I strongly considered doing some serious research into Toby Young to see what I could learn about the guy. Then I decided it would be more valuable, since I'm one of those who has had no experience with him, to come at him fresh and unspoiled. Well, now I'm spoiled, and my first impression is not a good one. In his first episode, he managed to trot out the übercliche of the way-too-pleased-with-himself food critic (cat/dog food), carefully explain that fennel has undertones of anise (you don't say?), and take potshots at American film stars (who largely deserve it, b-b-but the *blink* n-n-nation that inflicted *blink blink* H-H-H-Hugh *blink* Grant upon the *blink blink* world isn't exactly *blink blink* in a p-p-position to be *blink* throwing st-st-st-stones *blink blink blink*). Top Chef doesn't need a Simon Cowell. Tom's sniff-'n-sneer is quite adequate, thank you very much. I always thought Ted Allen's earnest but honest positivity with the occasional jab was a nice foil to Tom's paternal dressing-down. Paternal dressing-down and snarky dressing-down, on the other hand, are not as compatible as one might at first think. But in all fairness, it IS one episode, and Tom mentions that Toby toned down the smugness after realizing that he was going to have to actually comment intelligently rather than simply cracking snide, so he'll be given ample opportunity to redeem himself. For now, however, nine's as high as I can go. Sorry.
10 Carla Quickfires
0
2
1
Last Week: 10 Eliminations
0
1
2
Okay, I'm officially a Carla fan. Don't think she has a snowball's chance of winning, but I dig her. At first, I thought she was a total kook. But now, maybe it's something about the hypnotic quality of those eyes, but I'm starting to think she might be the only sane individual in the bunch. Not only was that Judges' Table error analysis one of the most thoughtful and mature displays we've seen this season, but it very well may have saved her. Though she's quality chaff, I think Carla's the last of those I'd consider bottom-tier this season. I have a great deal of respect for what she does -- soulful food with a minimum of pretension and a lot of layered flavors -- but while I'd love to eat brunch at her place, I just don't think this show's for her. She's been solid enough that she might have a fluky shot at the finals if a few people fall on their faces and the stars align just right (something she knows a lot about, apparently), but if she does, it'll be as the person who hangs around well past her time. But hey, I like her, so I might even be okay with it this season.
11 Gene Quickfires
0
0
1
Last Week: 9 Eliminations
1
2
3
The way the last few episodes had gone, everybody knew this was coming, and Gene finally goes down swinging. Gene was scrappy, and that was part of his appeal, but he lost me when scrappy turned to obstinate. But to his credit, his exit interview was very gracious. Tom was dead on in saying that the skill necessary to back up his creativity wasn't there, and it sounds as though that may have even gotten through to him, though perhaps not specifically when it came to the dish that got him ousted. Unlike many, I have no issue with warm daikon, but my reaction -- just like Jamie -- was that I couldn't see how daikon was going to work with a tomato basil sauce. Interestingly, in his blog interview Gene points out that none other than Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto uses that same flavor profile. So I went to my cookbook shelf (er... shelves), pulled down Morimoto's new book and lo and behold, there it was -- daikon fettuccine with tomato basil sauce. The good news is that while I don't trust Gene's palate, I do trust Morimoto's, so maybe the dish wasn't as insane as it appeared. The bad news was that it apparently wasn't Gene's sanity that was in question, but Morimoto's. Makes you wonder about some of his other creative endeavors.
12 Melissa Quickfires
0
1
0
Last Week: 11 Eliminations
0
1
3
Melissa's exit interview is hard to watch, but allow me to sum it up so you don't have to:

"Nuh-uh! I am TOO creative!"

You're welcome. To her credit, she seems to grasp that she didn't show it, and she understands that what got her sent home was as much her choice of fish as it was her treatment thereof. We see it time and time again and yet it still trips them up. Don't allow yourself to become so wedded to an idea that you find yourself accepting substandard ingredients to make it. Recipe for disaster. In any case, there are only so many times you can use "I didn't really get a chance to show what I can do" as an excuse, and Melissa got more chances than most. More than she deserved. But the point is moot.

EPISODE EIGHT SPOILERS AHEAD!!!

While it's going to be fun to see Hung, I'm a little less than enthused about next week's quickfire, which involves creating a dish entirely from dried and canned pantry items. I'm actually okay with the pantry staple aspect of it. As far as I'm concerned, it beats both the vending machine and the minimart, and there are plenty of ingredients that are not only fine in canned form, but sometimes better for certain applications. What gets me is the 15 minute limit. With a little time, I bet some ingenuity comes out of that challenge. But with 15 minutes less whatever time it takes to navigate the scrum? There are going to be some BAD dishes.

Thankfully, the elimination looks a lot more interesting, even if it also looks like it's going to be a team challenge. I like that they're taking the show to the farm. It'll be interesting to see whether they touch on some of the related social and ethical issues, or sidestep them entirely ("What's that? Oh, no, no, nothing to see here. Hey, did you know pork grows on trees?). And it will be instructive to see which chefs enjoy seeing their product face-to-face and which chefs don't want to be bothered. Plus, I kind of like the anti-fresh to reallyreally fresh symmetry that they're setting up. Without knowing anything about the challenge, it's hard to make any predictions, but it looks like there will be potential for some fun.

Discuss!

January 07, 2009

Top Chef Postmortem - Episode 7

Vindication on one front, humbled on another, annoyed on possibly the most important.

Jamie wins one. 'Bout time. I don't care if she has attitude about it. She's right. Of course, fennel/orange is as textbook as they come, so I'll be curious to see the recipe.

Ariane makes a creative dish. 'Bout time. Let's see if she can do it again, but full kudos.

All three of Toby Young's money lines are tired cliches, including the singlemost irritating description a critic can possibly use. When you call something dog food or cat food, it's because A) you lack the ability to articulate your objection to the dish, B) you lack confidence in your opinion and overcompensate with absurd hyperbole, or C) you're so drunk with your critical power that you just throw the nastiest thing you can think of out there. This is my first experience with Toby Young, and I'm holding off on final judgement for now, but none of the above bode well.

Discuss!

Top Chef Power Rankings

Hey, all!

With apologies, I need to beg off on the rankings this week. We're still traveling, and I haven't been able to do any research or rewatch episode six since it first aired three weeks ago. But I'll be back home in time for tomorrow night's episode, and rest assured, the rankings will return at full strength next week, and I'm sure we'll have much to discuss.

January 05, 2009

Back Me Up, Here...

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you're cruising around Napa Valley and you encounter this...

Jamon Iberico de Bellota Dominic Armato

...you really have no choice but to do this...

Purchased from Dean & Deluca Dominic Armato

...so you can seize the rare opportunity to enjoy this...

Fifteen Dollars, Three Slices Dominic Armato

...am I right?

Almost made up for the fact that we missed both Paul Bocuse and Daniel Boulud at Bouchon by a couple of hours. Almost.

Still traveling. Power rankings soon. And a massive backlog of vacation eating.

January 01, 2009

Cookin' It Old School

Lobster Thermidor Dominic Armato

I see your prime rib with horseradish cream, Mom, and I raise you Lobster Thermidor.